Christchurch and Arthur's Pass, South Island - October 2009

The first long weekend since June! We flew down to Christchurch for a few days. We had visited there before a few years ago and found the city unimpressive. However, the South Island is famous for its natural beauty and there are two places, not far away from Christchurch, that we missed during our previous trip there: Arthur’s Pass and Mount Cook.

For this long weekend, we chose to take the Alpine train (the main attraction of this excursion as our ability to hike in the Pass was obviously limited) from Christchurch to Arthur’s Pass. Who knows, we might go back before we leave New Zealand to see Mount Cook.

We spent our first day hanging out in Christchurch. The city’s downtown is so small and compact that we were able to walk to all the sites or use the city’s famous tram.

The weather was wonderful and I felt a bit sentimental as I was remembering us walking the streets of Christchurch a few years prior (B.E. – Before Ephraim). These are some pics I took on our walk.

















The focal point of the city is the Cathedral. It was completed in 1904. It’s a Gothic revival Anglican church with a 63-metre spire.









E enjoyed the ride on the(aforementioned) faithfully restored vintage tram around Christchurch’s central city.









Eric and I took pleasure in viewing the city’s many outstanding heritage buildings:

The Arts Centre,

















Canterbury Museum with the adjacent Botanic Gardens,







and Christ’s College. It is the country's best boarding school for boys. During our last visit a few ears ago, Eric and I had a chance to get a tour of the college on an Open House day - Great facility. I recently found out too that one of my colleagues attended the college many yaers ago.







My favorite spot was Victoria’s Park.











I enjoyed sitting on the Avon River’s banks and watching classic punts passing by poled quietly by Edwardian punters.





Worth mentioning is also New Regent Street. Built in 1932, and home to some of the city’s more interesting up-market cafes and stores. The street features pastel-colored buildings and trellised balconies recalling the Spanish Mission style of architecture.







After E’s nap, we met with a friend of mine who lives in Christchurch. Piotr is Polish but has spent the last 17 years in New Zealand. We met through work. While the grown-ups chatted away, E was busy playing.











The following morning we hopped on the TranzAlpine and headed for Arthur’s Pass through the heart of of the Southern Alps. The 2.5-hour journey went surprising well. Eric read, E watched Bob the Builder…



And I spent most of the time on the viewing platform taking pictures of the breathtaking landscape: the lush Canterbury plains, spectacular river gorges, imposing mountains with their snow-capped peaks, and native beech forests.



































Arthur’s Pass Village is nestled in a steep-sided, forest-covered, U-shaped valley. It is a home to only 40 residents













and many Keas (“trickster alpine parrots”). The birds are a familiar sight in many alpine areas of the South Island. They are curious scavengers and kleptomaniacs and they enjoy posing for the camera.







Arthur’s Pass National Park is the area of 720 square kilometers surrounding the pass. It encompasses much of the alpine flora unique to New Zealand.





























We did a couple of short hikes and were slightly disappointed we were not able to take full advantage of our visit. The first walk we did was The Devil’s Punchbowl which unfortunately was closed mid-way due to a landslide that occurred a few days prior. We did though caught a glimpse of the dramatic waterfall.













The other was Bridal Veil Nature Walk. Again, we needed to give up half-way through, after reaching the Bridal Veil Creek, because we were afraid we would miss our train back. Still the walk through mountain beeches was really pleasant.





















E’s favorite activity was throwing rocks into the rivers, streams and puddles. He’s such a boy!







The place was truly magical! Our guide said that “you really need to take one of the many day (or longer) walks to get a feel for this remarkable alpine landscape.”

Before we caught the train back to Christchurch, we had a quick bite to eat and a nap at one of the two restaurants in town.





The next day, we headed back home. Our flight was delayed by 3 hours. We were exhausted, irritable but... ended up “losing” E’s last “dummy.” E has been a “Big Boy” ever since, which fantastically coincided with his moving to the Big Kids’ (Preschool) Room at the day care center.







I’m often awed by the magnificence of New Zealand’s pristine wilderness… I'm feeling torn between an urge to leave here and go places that are more developed and the guilt for depriving E of the experience of growing up in this, hands-down and no-question-about-it" unspoiled environment.